Biggest waves in years!
Be careful out there if you go into the water MONDAY AND PEAKING TUESDAY, Deadly Rip Tides for sure!
From the National Weather Service & NOAA:
...HIGH SURF WARNING IN EFFECT UNTIL 8 PM AST TUESDAY...
LARGE...LONG PERIOD...NORTH NORTHEAST SWELLS WILL CONTINUE TO
AFFECT THE ATLANTIC WATERS AND THE CARIBBEAN PASSAGES THROUGH THE
REST OF TODAY...RESULTING IN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SURF CONDITIONS
ACROSS THE NORTHERN EXPOSED COASTLINES OF ALL OF THE LOCAL
ISLANDS. THESE SWELLS WILL BE CAPABLE OF PRODUCING BREAKING WAVES
OF 15 TO 20 FEET...OR LARGER...ALONG THE NORTHERN EXPOSED
SHOALS...REEFS AND BEACHES OF THE LOCAL ISLANDS.
IN ADDITION...A SECOND BATCH OF LARGER NORTH NORTHEAST SWELLS...WITH
VERY LONG WAVE PERIODS OF 14 TO 16 SECONDS...WILL BUILD ACROSS THE
LOCAL ATLANTIC WATERS TONIGHT...PEAKING EARLY TUESDAY...BEFORE
SLOWLY SUBSIDING THROUGH MID-WEEK. THESE SWELLS WILL LIKELY PRODUCE
EVEN LARGER BREAKING WAVES OF 20 TO 25 FEET...OR LARGER...ALONG
WITH FREQUENT AND STRONG RIP CURRENTS...RESULTING IN CONTINUED EXTREMELY
DANGEROUS SURF CONDITIONS.
Anyone see anything ?
From NOAA website:
AREA FORECAST DISCUSSION
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN JUAN PR
1058 AM AST TUE DEC 29 2009
.UPDATE...SWELL EVENT CONTINUES TO BE NUMBER ONE CONCERN...WITH
VERY DANGEROUS SURF TO CONTINUE THROUGHOUT THE NEXT 24-72 HOURS.
CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING THE PEAK OF THIS EVENT WITH BUOY 41403
HAVING REPORTED 13 FOOT SWELLS AT 16 SECONDS. CALCULATIONS SHOW
THIS SHOULD RESULT IN AROUND 20 TO 25 FOOT BREAKERS ALONG REEFS AND
ROCKY COASTLINES...AN ESTIMATE WELL CONFIRMED BY SEVERAL
OBSERVATIONS. SEVERAL REPORTS OF COASTAL FLOODING ALSO
IN...INCLUDING PARQUE BARBOSA OF THE SAN JUAN AREA...AND A COASTAL
ROAD CLOSURE IN VEGA BAJA. THERE ARE LIKELY MANY MORE AREAS BEING IMPACTED.
WOULD LIKE TO STRESS THAT GOING TO THE BEACH TO VIEW THESE SWELLS
SHOULD BE DONE WITH CAUTION...ALWAYS STAYING AT LEAST 50 FEET FROM
WHERE YOU SEE THE WATER. THE REASON BEING...EVERY ONE IN ONE
HUNDRED WAVES CAN POTENTIALLY BE ABOUT TWICE AS HIGH AS THE AVERAGE
WAVE. THAT MEANS THAT A ROGUE 30 OR 40 FOOT BREAKING WAVE IS NOT
OUT OF THE QUESTION. THIS PRESENTS A CLEAR DANGER TO PEOPLE
WATCHING THE WAVES FROM ROCKY OUTCROPS ALONG THE COAST. THERE MAY
SEEM TO BE NO APPARENT DANGER...AND ALL OF A SUDDEN A LARGE
BREAKER CAN APPEAR WHICH IS MUCH BIGGER THAN THE REST OF THE
WAVES. SO BE SAFE AND STAY A SAFE DISTANCE FROM THE WATER.
I guess I will miss the waves. I come back on the 4th.
Please take care for those who go into the water to surf!
Anybody take any photos? Would love to see as I'm off island.
Well, im upset with the national weather service. 20-25 foot waves...yeah right. I saw nothing more than 12-14 or so breaking on the eastern side of judiths. There were some great swells and surfers at Judiths, but quite dangerous as the waves were unpredictable unless you went far out. Carambola, Cane bay and east had small waves, but i didnt go to Shoys. The swell was coming in at the wrong angle for nice waves at the beaches. oh well, still awesome to watch the break. I wish i could have gone to the tidal pools...anyone got pictures?
Cory If you don't mind a long paddle out, this is the best break on island, call or pm me and I'll tell you where it is. It was epic this morning.
I agree, the waves were disappointing!
Thanks for the photo shots.
Yeah thanks for the heads up, Cory...I also checked around and was disappointed with the breaks. Saw huge stuff around hard surfs. Not much at Bogeys, all closing out at St. C, but did end up at Clovercrest near Butler Bay for some fun times. Next time you see something possible start a Surf STX thread and let's keep up there. ... and thanks for posting photos everyone!
Hubby and I went out to the beach at Hibiscus area last nite around 9:30pm. Nowhere near the "big waves" (more like 8-10 ft. if that) but the moon and ocean surf was GORGEOUS! Hard to believe that I live 1 minute away but don't visit such everyday beauty!
I hear that the "big waves" are due back between tonight and tomorrow. Hubby's sleeping, so I'm home-bound tonight.:-(
Those are some great photos!